There are five dial variations of the first-generation Vacheron Constantin Overseas. Four of them you encounter with some patience. The fifth — the salmon — you wait for.
This ref. 42050 is that fifth dial. Of all the colourways produced across the Overseas’ first generation run, the salmon is the most highly sought and the most rare — described officially by Vacheron Constantin as “rosy beige”, a label that does it no justice whatsoever. What the dial actually looks like in person is something between warm copper and rose gold, shifting subtly as the sunburst finish catches different angles. Still, restrained, and entirely its own thing.
The applied hour markers carry their original tritium lume plots, now aged to a warm amber — uneven, organic, entirely authentic. The triangular minute-track indicators around the periphery have developed the same honey tone. This is what an untouched first-generation Overseas looks like after nearly three decades: honest, original, and better for it.
The 35mm tonneau-shaped case is what makes the Overseas ref. 42050 so architecturally distinctive. The notched bezel echoes Vacheron’s Maltese cross directly — the same emblem engraved into the crown, stamped onto the clasp, and embossed in relief on the Amerigo Vespucci caseback. Every surface carries the symbol. At just 7mm thick, the case sits almost flat against the wrist, with a profile unlike anything else in the sports watch world. The brushed and polished surfaces are beautifully preserved throughout — unpolished, with their original factory finishing intact.
The bracelet is equally striking. Square, architectural links with polished sides and brushed tops, flowing directly from the case with no end-link gap. The Maltese flip-lock clasp — engraved with the cross — closes with a solidity that feels considered, not incidental.
Inside runs the calibre 1310, a chronometer-certified automatic movement with a gold rotor and 27 jewels. The caseback confirms it: “Chronometer Officially Certified”, surrounding the Vespucci relief in full.
This example comes with its complete original set — inner and outer box, Overseas instruction booklet, and Vacheron Constantin certificate. A full-set first-generation Overseas with a salmon dial is not something that comes to market often. At Lorièn Watches, Amsterdam, we have been looking for precisely this watch for a long time. Now that it’s here, it won’t stay long.
Specifications
- Reference: 42050/423A
- Year: Circa 1997
- Diameter: 35mm
- Case material: Stainless steel, integrated tonneau case
- Bezel: Notched stainless steel, Maltese cross design
- Dial: Salmon sunburst with applied baton markers and tritium lume plots
- Crystal: Sapphire, scratch-resistant
- Movement: Vacheron Constantin calibre 1310, automatic chronometer, 27 jewels
- Bracelet: Integrated stainless steel with Maltese flip-lock clasp
- Condition: Unpolished, original tritium patina throughout
- Set: Inner box, outer box, instruction booklet, certificate
Available exclusively through Lorièn Watches, Amsterdam.
