There is a version of the 5513 that most people overlook. They chase the matte dials, the gilt dials, the Maxi plots — and in doing so, they walk straight past one of the most wearable, most resolved Submariners ever made.
This is the late-production 5513: a gloss black dial with applied white gold hour markers, produced in the final years before the reference was retired in 1989. Where the earlier matte dials have raw, tool-watch character, this one has something different — a lacquered depth to the dial surface that catches light in a way no matte finish can, paired with the warmth of ageing tritium that only this generation carries.
The lume plots have developed a beautiful, even ivory patina across all positions. The round dots, the rectangular bars at 3, 6 and 9, and the large triangle at 12 — all sitting proud in their white gold surrounds, the tritium beneath warm and consistent. The Mercedes hands have aged to match. On a gloss dial this dark, the contrast between the black surface and the creamy lume is quietly spectacular.
The applied white gold markers are what elevate this dial above the painted indexes of earlier production. Each one is a solid, three-dimensional element rising from the dial surface — sharper, more refined, and far more resistant to the kind of ageing that affects purely printed dials. The “Swiss – T < 25” signature at the base confirms the late production period and the tritium lume specification.
The 40mm case is in excellent condition, with the characteristic profile of the late 5513 — clean crown guards, correct proportions, and the satisfying solidity that made this watch a benchmark for sports watches of its era. The gloss black bezel insert remains dark and well-defined, with the correct pip at 12 and crisp numerals at the quarter marks. The acrylic crystal is correct for this reference — period-appropriate and well-preserved.
The original green caseback sticker is still present — an extraordinary survival detail on a watch of this age, confirming the watch has been handled with care and respect throughout its life.
The Oyster bracelet with flip-lock clasp is in excellent condition, solid and well-fitting, with the Rolex crown in relief on the clasp — appropriate for this late generation of 5513 production.
Powering the watch is the calibre 1520, Rolex’s dependable automatic movement — non-chronometer certified, which is precisely why the dial carries only two lines of text. No clutter, no credentials. Just Submariner and depth rating.
The late gloss dial 5513 is the last of its kind — the final chapter of one of watchmaking’s great references. At Lorièn Watches in Amsterdam, we find it consistently underappreciated relative to what it actually is: an original acrylic-crystal Submariner with solid white gold markers, genuine tritium patina, and a production number low enough to make it genuinely scarce.
Specifications
- Reference: 5513
- Year: Circa 1987
- Diameter: 40mm
- Case material: Stainless steel
- Bezel: Gloss black insert, feet-first configuration
- Dial: Gloss black, applied white gold markers, “Swiss – T < 25” signed, two-liner
- Crystal: Acrylic, domed
- Movement: Rolex calibre 1520, automatic
- Bracelet: Oyster stainless steel with flip-lock clasp
- Condition: Excellent vintage condition, original green caseback sticker present, superb tritium patina
Available exclusively through Lorièn Watches, Amsterdam.
